Loose leash walking: why it’s hard and how to actually achieve it
Why loose leash walking feels impossible (and why it isn’t)
If you’ve ever been dragged down the footpath by your dog, you’re in very good company. Pulling on the leash is one of the most common complaints I hear from dog owners — and it’s also one of the most frustrating, because every single walk becomes a battle of wills. But here’s the good news: it’s absolutely fixable. It just takes understanding why it happens in the first place.
Why dogs pull — it’s not stubbornness
Dogs don’t pull on the leash because they’re dominant, badly behaved, or trying to make your life difficult. They pull because it works. When your dog pulls forward and you follow along (because what else are you going to do?), pulling has just been reinforced. The dog moved forward, got to sniff that lamp post, and reached the other dog. From their perspective, pulling is a highly effective strategy.
On top of that, the natural walking pace of most dogs is simply faster than ours. Add in the incredible sensory experience of the outside world — smells, sounds, other animals, people — and you’ve got a dog who is genuinely excited and in a hurry. The leash is the only thing slowing them down, and if pressure on the leash means they still move forward, they’ll keep doing it.
This is what trainers mean when we say pulling is “self-reinforcing.” You don’t need to do anything to maintain it — the behaviour sustains itself through the environment.
Equipment: does it make a difference?
Choosing the right equipment won’t train your dog for you, but it can make the process safer and more manageable while you work on the behaviour.
A standard flat collar is fine for dogs who walk well, but it puts pressure directly on the trachea when a dog pulls — not ideal for dogs who pull hard. A well-fitted harness distributes pressure more evenly across the chest and back, which is generally more comfortable.
A front-clip or dual-clip harness (sometimes called a no-pull harness) attaches the leash at the chest rather than the back. When your dog pulls forward, the clip redirects them back toward you rather than allowing them to charge ahead. This doesn’t eliminate pulling, but it reduces the physics advantage your dog has and gives you more control while you train.
Head collars work similarly by steering from the nose, but they require a careful introduction period — many dogs find them uncomfortable at first, so take the time to properly desensitise your dog before using one on a walk.
Avoid retractable leashes when working on loose leash walking. They teach your dog that pulling creates slack, which is the opposite of what you want.
The stop-and-wait method
This is one of the simplest and most effective techniques for teaching dogs that pulling doesn’t work. Here’s how it goes:
- The moment the leash goes taut, you stop. Completely. Don’t move forward, don’t jerk back — just stop.
- Wait for your dog to release the tension on the leash — even slightly. This might take a few seconds or a few minutes the first time.
- The instant there’s a little slack, mark it (with a “yes!” or a clicker) and move forward again as the reward.
- Repeat every single time the leash tightens.
It sounds simple, and it is — but it requires consistency and patience. In the early stages, you might not get very far on your walks. That’s okay. The goal is to change the dog’s understanding: a tight leash means we stop, a loose leash means we go.
Rewarding the position
The stop-and-wait method tells your dog what not to do. This technique tells them what to do instead. Decide where you want your dog to walk — typically beside or just behind your leg — and reward them heavily for being in that position.
- Start in a low-distraction environment (your backyard or a quiet street).
- Walk forward, and every few steps, reward your dog when they’re in the right position with a treat delivered right at your hip.
- Gradually increase the number of steps between rewards as your dog gets the hang of it.
- Use a verbal marker (“yes!”) to precisely mark the moment they’re in position before delivering the treat.
The treat delivery location matters — always give the treat down at your side, not in front of you, so your dog doesn’t get into the habit of walking ahead to reach your hand.
Turning and changing direction
Another great tool is the direction change. When your dog forges ahead, calmly turn and walk the other way before the leash goes tight. Your dog will naturally follow, and when they catch up to your side, reward generously. This keeps your dog’s attention on you rather than on what’s ahead, and helps them learn that keeping an eye on you is worth their while.
In my experience, dogs who get good at direction changes start checking in with their owners more often — which is exactly the relationship dynamic you want on a walk.
Proofing in different environments
Once your dog is walking beautifully in a quiet area, it’s time to gradually increase the difficulty. Distraction proofing is an often-skipped step, but it’s essential. Start with slightly busier streets, then parks, then areas with other dogs or people nearby.
Each new environment is essentially starting fresh. Don’t be surprised if your dog who walks perfectly in your street pulls like a freight train near a busy café strip. This is normal — just drop back to basics, increase your reward rate, and build up again.
Realistic timeline expectations
Loose leash walking is a skill that takes weeks to months to become reliable — especially in distracting environments. If your dog has been pulling for years, there’s a lot of reinforcement history to work through. Be patient with yourself and your dog. Short, focused training walks (even ten minutes) done consistently will make far more progress than occasional long walks where pulling is allowed.
Celebrate small wins. A walk where your dog checked in with you three times is progress worth recognising, even if it wasn’t perfect.
If you have questions about loose leash walking, feel free to get in touch — we’re always happy to help.